OLGA'S CUP AND SAUCER,

Olga's Cup and Saucer is the quintessential oasis in an urban setting. Near the busy Davol Square intersection, its inviting herb garden and restful patio beckon those country folks at heart whose work lives confine them to coffee breaks on concrete. Olga Bravo and partner Becky Wagner first set up shop 10 years ago under a spreading oak tree in Little Compton. They turned out such good bread and brownies that Bravo and Wagner eventually expanded into gourmet desserts -- and then northward to Providence. Try their sandwiches, creative inventions wrapped in flour tortillas, baked in phyllo dough, or tucked inside Olga's sesame-sprinkled sourdough torpedoes. Their black-bean burrito ($4.75) is laced with fresh ginger and cilantro and rolled tight inside a tortilla with a thin coating of sour cream. For dessert, the polenta cake, made from Gray's stone-ground cornmeal and finely ground almonds, is reminiscent of German Sandkuchen, like a poundcake with moxie.

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